Replacing the Orifice

You will need to replace the WAZER’s Orifice after 300+hr of run time, when the performance of your WAZER starts to decline, or if the orifice is damaged.

While the procedure is straightforward it is important to be careful and follow the steps carefully and keep everything clean as you are working. Small debris in the system can clog or crack the orifice. If you don’t feel comfortable with this procedure feel free to contact and we can work with you through the process and suggest some tools to make it easier for you.

Required Tools

  • 11mm wrench

  • 28mm wrench preferably (an adjustable wrench will work but may mark mar the edges of your Nozzle)

  • 4mm Hex key

  • Adjustable Pliers

  • Cleaning tools

  • Masking tape

  • Paper Towels (Ideally Shop towel)


  • Ultrasonic Cleaner (if you have it)

  • 11mm crowfoot socket with a torque wrench set to 50Nm

  • Compressed air

  1. [CAUTION!] Wait for the machine to fully dry off and brush off all abrasive around the Nozzle and the door window as well. Using a compressed air source (set to no more than 35 psi) blow the area of the Nozzle clear of any abrasive (Safety glasses required) .

  2. Perform a Nozzle Purge by navigating to Setup & Maintenance > Maintenance > Nozzle Purge on the Control Panel. This releases high pressure from the system. Turn off the On/Off Valve or water supply to the machine.

  3. Turn off WAZER and disconnect AC power from WAZER and the Pump Box.

  4. Loosen and remove the knurled z-axis height adjustment.

5. Use a 4mm hex wrench to remove the two bolts securing the Nozzle assembly to the Gantry.

6. Use masking tape to cover up the exposed holes while you are working.

7. Loosen and remove the knurled guard on the Nozzle - this shouldn’t be more than hand tight. We have found that if it has been a long time it can get a bit stuck in which case using adjustable pliers can help.

8. Once the Nozzle is exposed it should easily slide down and out. A rotation by hand should free it if it’s locked up. If this doesn’t work for you, pinch the white collar to loosen it from the taper.

9. Gently peel up the Z-Axis Bellow from the Mixing Chamber. Be careful with this step and do not use a tool to pry it up as it could tear the Bellow. This will expose a set of flats on a rod that is under the Bellow.

10. Grab an 11mm and 28mm wrench. Use these to break the connection between the newly exposed Guide Rod and the Mixing Chamber.

IMPORTANT. Do not try this while the Nozzle is attached to the Gantry. Excessive forces on the Gantry during this step can make it unusable. If you don’t have a 28mm wrench you can use a large adjustable wrench, however, this may result in some marring of the outside of the Mixing Chamber. 11mm wrenches are also quite short and you may not be able to get the leverage needed to break open the head. We recommend slipping a length of pipe over the wrench to get the leverage needed.

11. Use tape to cover the bottom of the Guide Rod.

12. The Orifice is now exposed in the body of the Mixing Chamber. Take a look and see if anything is caught at the center of the brass ring, you should be able to see a tiny hole.

At This point if you are placing the Mixing chamber, orifice, and nozzle skip ahead to the reassembly process (step 14).

13. Remove the Orifice from the Mixing Chamber – you may need to whack it against your hand.

14. Use a toothpick or metal dental pick to remove debris from the threads both inside and outside.

15. Before replacing the Orifice with a new one, do a thorough cleaning of the Mixing Chamber, rinsing it with water and blowing out any debris. If you have an ultrasonic cleaner, it is recommended but not required.

16. Place a new Orifice into the Mixing Chamber with the brass ring facing you (the slightly domed side of the Orifice up). You will also notice that one side of the Orifice is flat, make sure that this is the side that sits down against the Mixing Chamber.

17. Now, cleanliness is paramount. Clean off all the Blue Goop. Then look at the Guide Rod and inspect the threaded part to make sure there isn’t a single piece of abrasive at the bottom or on the threads. Just a single piece of abrasive that finds its way into the Orifice will result in a clog or crack.

18. Reassemble the Mixing Chamber and Guide Rod, making sure no abrasive has an opportunity to fall into the Mixing Chamber (i.e. a piece falling from Bellows). You will know that your cleaning in the previous step was sufficient if the Mixing Chamber smoothly threads onto the Guide Rod.

19. Tighten the connection with 11mm and 28mm wrenches. You want this to be very tight. If you have the 11mm crowfoot wrench and a torque wrench tighten this to 50Nm (37 ft-lb).

20. Preassemble the Nozzle, white collar, and knurled guard together. Screw this onto the Mixing Chamber. Before tightening the knurled guard, make sure to lower the entire Nozzle onto a piece of material so that the Nozzle is fully pushed up and seated into the Mixing Chamber. Now tighten the knurling.

21. Pull the lower Bellow lip back into the groove. Be careful to get this fully seated. Also, be gentle with the Bellow as it can tear with aggressive handling. Pull up on the Bellow to make sure the lip is fully seated.

22. Re-install the Nozzle assemble onto the Gantry using the two M5 bolts. Don’t fully tighten them yet.

23. Step back and make sure the Nozzle is lined up with the Gantry center block. When you are satisfied tighten down the mounting bolts fully.